After a half-day wine tour in Etyek, it was time to board our first river cruise, and the Danube had a surprise in store.

Boarding the Avalon Expression

Yesterday we boarded the Avalon Expression for our first river cruise. Of course, nature had other plans: due to the historically low water levels of the Danube, we will remain docked in Budapest for a few days until we travel to Vienna. Therefore, today was a rather unplanned day.

Upon boarding, we learned that Avalon had arranged some complimentary tours for this morning, and we elected to join a half-day tour to the Royal Palace of Gödöllő outside the city.

The Royal Palace of Gödöllő

After a quick 45-minute drive from the city center, we arrived at the largest Baroque palace in Hungary. Originally built in the 18th century, and while not constructed for them, it is best known as the summer residence of Emperor Franz Joseph I and his wife, Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi”) of the Habsburg Monarchy. While the name Emperor Franz Joseph may not leap to mind, his nephew, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand, we are certain does, as does his assassination in 1914.

The palace fell into disrepair following WWII, having been used by troops and, for a time, as an old age home. In 1981, rehabilitation and restoration efforts began, and the residential quarters were reconstructed, reforming into a museum of a palace.

While the palace is lovely, a reminder of a time long passed, the very large, multihectare English park on its grounds is wonderful to stroll.

Gellért Hill Cave (Saint Ivan’s Cave)

We returned to our boat for lunch and then made our way across the bridge to the Gellért Hill Cave, also known as Saint Ivan’s Cave. In the 1920s, Pauline monks constructed an entrance to the caves, and the church was consecrated in 1926. It was a chapel and a monastery until 1951 and was ultimately closed by the Soviets.

It was reopened in 1989, and by 1992 it was restored and the Pauline order returned.

Right on the riverbank of the Danube, the façade appears to grow out of the rock itself. It is quite interesting and different to walk through the caves, the chapel, and its sanctuaries. It is a stark contrast to the majesty of St. Stephen’s Basilica and Matthias Church here in Budapest.

An Illumination Cruise on the Danube

Last but not least, as we will not sail this part of the Danube from Budapest to Vienna, tonight we were treated to an illumination cruise along the Danube to see this magnificent city lit from the water. The sights speak for themselves.