A More Local Prague: A Food and History Tour with George and an Evening at Vyšehrad

After our first day of iconic sights in Prague, we set out to see a more local side of the city.

Today was a day designed to be a more local experience in Prague. Yesterday we hit some of the obligatory iconic sights, along with thousands of others. Today we indulged in two of our favorite things: a food tour and touring a lesser-traveled part of the city.

A Delicious Food Tour of Prague with George

Late morning, we met up with George, one of the owners (along with his wife) of Prague Food Tour, for their Delicious Food Tour of Prague. Much to our surprise, this small group today was just us. This tour hit every note we hope for in a food tour: an engaging host; terrific food stops with full and robust explanations of the establishment, the food, its history, and how it connects to Czech culture; historic sights and stories along the walking portions, with depth and meaning; and, finally, just a really great time spent with a host who felt like an old friend showing you their hometown. George was all of that and more. He even taught us some basic Czech words and phrases (or at least he tried).

Cukrář Skála: Apple Koláč

Our first stop was a bakery named Cukrář Skála for an apple koláč, somewhere between a cookie and a Danish. Not too sweet, with a very nice crumb. The cakes looked amazing, and the little shop was surrounded by a glass wall, allowing you to watch them work in the kitchen behind it, making the cakes.

Lunch at Café Imperial: Kulajda and Svíčková

Our lunch stop came next at Café Imperial for a two-course traditional lunch, with beer, of course. We have been told that the Czech Republic has the highest per capita annual beer consumption in the world. Our first course was kulajda soup: a dill, mushroom, and potato soup with a touch of vinegar and sugar. What sends it over the edge is the farm-poached egg served in it that you break and swirl into your soup. We immediately asked where we could find a recipe, and George said he would email it to us.

Next up was the svíčková: a slice of braised tenderloin of beef served with a bread dumpling and a carrot and parsley root gravy. Super light and absolutely delicious. A testament to not judging a book by its cover, as it is not a looker of a dish.

Lokál: Beer, Foam, and Traditional Bar Food

After a bit of a stroll, we stopped at what was described as the largest beer hall in Prague, Lokál. The place was huge and filled with locals and some tourists. George sat us down, explained the beer options (light or dark), and shared the context of beer foam and why it is an important part of Czech beer culture. Once beer was in hand, George ordered some traditional bar food: pražská šunka (Prague ham), tatarák (steak tartare), nakládaný hermelín (pickled cheese), and bramborový salát (potato salad). All were very tasty, but the steak tartare was out of this world: you start with warm bread grilled in lard, rub a clove of garlic on it, then top it with the tartare. All of this was followed by a round of shots of Becherovka.

A Walk Through Old Town and Something Sweet at Myšák

A much longer walk followed, thank goodness, through Old Town, the main square, the astronomical clock, Wenceslas Square, and more, through side and back streets known by George.

Then we came upon our last stop, Myšák, for something sweet. A trio of desserts was wonderful: vanilkový věneček (choux pastry with custard filling), harlekýn cake (layers of light mousse), and buchtičky se šodó (sweet dough buns in vanilla cream). Completely sated, we bid farewell to our new friend George, with new and robust knowledge of Prague and Czech culture and history, and very full bellies.

Golden Hour at Vyšehrad

After a bit of a rest, we concluded our day in the later afternoon with a visit to Vyšehrad. It is a historic fort and public park on a rocky cliff on the right bank of the Vltava river. Dating back to the 10th century, it is lush and sprawling, with views over the river. Unlike Prague Castle, there were no crowds, just many locals walking babies and dogs and enjoying this golden hour of sunshine through the trees and beautiful grounds and historic buildings.

At the center of it all stands the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul. Its neo-Gothic design is striking from the exterior, but the interior is the showstopper, and it speaks for itself. In contrast to Prague Castle, this experience felt far more authentic, relaxed, and enjoyable.